A wet night in Bergen, as seen from the window of our loft apartment last night around 11 p.m. We're back in the city we love, with its sweet hilly streets, its old wooden houses, its laid-back demeanor. We rolled in just before 5 yesterday evening, with plenty of time to haul our belongings up two flights of stairs and then hike across town, downhill and up again, to Mass.
I have to say: English is my first language, but if I lived here, I probably would opt for the big Mass in Norwegian, with choir, in the morning, rather than the VERY Sunday-evening English Mass. BUT I was really glad to be there nonetheless. It's good to be a Catholic. We walked into that church and were at home. As much as we've been poking around in churches for the last two weeks, it was nice to be in our church (and honestly, in our language, too --- we did go to a Mass in Norwegian last week in Trondheim, and while you know the Mass, regardless of what language it's in, it sure is good to be able to say the responses and understand the prayers).
After Mass, we went to our favorite neighborhood pub, Dr. Wiesener's, for beer and dinner.
I've got to remember to take a picture of the outside: the old building sits on the brow of the hill, with a big patio full of tables and climbing roses. It's a lovely spot. But on a rainy evening, it was cozy inside and surprisingly quiet. The food is very good, the bar staff are friendly --- it's just a great place, recommended to us by our Airbnb host last year. They don't really do cocktails, just beer, wine, and spirits, but that suits us just fine.
We're here today and tomorrow, flying out Wednesday for home. I both am and am not ready to leave: tired and ready to sleep in my own bed, missing my house and my dog, anxious about my garden, but also reluctant to say goodbye to this lovely country, not knowing when we'll be back. After two years in a row, which has honestly felt a little like overkill at times, we might not come back for a long time, or ever . . . so that's a bit melancholy, as a thought. This has been a good experience overall. As ready as I am, I'm really not ready for it all to be over. Again, I've been posting more than usual on Instagram, since (uncharacteristically for me) I have had more photos to offer than text, so I won't belabor all our adventures here. Suffice it to say that we've had a varied trip, city and countryside, hiking (sometimes quite rugged) and urban sightseeing. There's always more to want to do, but in one lifetime, how much can you really do? You have to be grateful for what you can, and okay with letting go of the rest.
Meanwhile, as I'm mentally preparing to pack for home, I'm casting my mind yet again over my travel capsule. It's served me well. The few things I threw in at the last minute have served me especially well. I'd have missed the trusty alpaca cardigan, had I not packed it at the eleventh hour. I've worn it just about every day we've been here and don't know what I'd have done without it. Other things . . . maybe not so much?
Although I did quite successfully pack in just carry-on luggage, I still have the nagging feeling that I overpacked by at least one dress. Of the dresses I brought, I could probably have done without my Marine-Blue Maggie, which I wore one day in Trondeim but haven't worn otherwise. I could really have done without the green maxi skirt I wore on the plane, though I might well wear it home again. I haven't worn my green pullover as much as I did last year --- the cut-up cashmere one, on the other hand, has gotten a lot of wear, especially on hikes. Speaking of which, I wish I had left my leather boots at home. I wore them once, on our big hike in the Sognefjord district last week, but they hurt my feet, and I've been happier hiking in my Xero trailrunners. I think, in fact, that I might sell those leather boots when I get home, and look to replace them with another pair of barefoot hikers that would be good for the winter.
I've worn my Crocs sandals only once, though it was nice to get them out for Mass last night. If the weather had been consistently hotter, I might have worn them more. As it is, I've worn the Xeros more than anything else, both on hikes and for street wear.
Here's a quick rundown of outfits since last Wednesday in Trondheim:
Last Thursday, leaving Trondheim:
*Wool& Maggie in Marine Blue, with Birk Mayaris. I'm sure I put on my alpaca cardigan at some point.
Today, as you can see, Fiona is getting a second whirl. Here she appears in various poses, with my green Allbirds leggings and wet hair:
Two cups of coffee and one hot shower have done much to revive me. No shoes yet, but undoubtedly I'll wear my Xeros out today. My Tari boots are in the car still, and I might have to swing by the parking garage and retrieve them --- I'll have to get out any clothes still in the car to pack, at any rate. But I think the hikers will work fine today.
And I'll doubtless add either the trusty cardigan or the cashmere pullover. One lifesaving practice on this trip has been to keep my wallet, passport, extra glasses, etc, in a crossbody bag (mine broke, so I've been using my husband's belt pack as a crossbody bag, since he hasn't been using it), but also to carry my day pack with jacket and extra layers --- or to hold extra layers if I get hot and take them off.
Other packing/travel notes, while I'm thinking about it:
*I could have packed far fewer pairs of socks and underwear. Washing things out daily as I wear them (and drying them on plug-in radiators, which we've had in every place we've stayed) has meant that I haven't needed as much. Those things don't take up that much room, but I really could have traveled lighter in that regard.
*I've used my shampoo and LUS 3-in-1 leave-in just about every other day on this trip, but I have not used hair gel at all and could have left that at home.
*I have packed successfully for varying temperatures. I'm glad I didn't bring any linen dresses --- I have worn my linen big shirt once, and if the weather had been consistently warmer I would have worn it more. As it is, my wool dresses have once again carried the day, working well on their own or with layers. I am glad I brought two dresses with 3/4-length sleeves, and generally glad that I brought enough dresses to have a good rotation, so that I haven't been wearing the same thing all the time. Dresses have all been worn twice, I think, with the exception of Marine-Blue Maggie, which I've worn once, and Camellia, which I've worn every time we've hiked. I haven't had a chance to get tired of anything except bundling it all back into the backpack over and over, and digging around to find it again in the next place.
*Camellia has been a particular champ for hiking. One thing I'd love to find, if at all possible, is one of the old Brooklyns --- or else a well-used one in a regular-length Small size --- to use as another hiking dress. I don't wear really short dresses all that often in normal life, but for hiking, I want a pretty short skirt to wear over bike shorts, and could use another dress for outdoor activities. Otherwise, another old Camellia, or a short Maggie . . . again, in relatively used condition, so I don't mind treating it a little roughly.
Meanwhile . . . it's very cloudy and rainy, and I'm enjoying sitting by the radiator with my coffee. Eventually we'll go out and do things, but it's nice to have a quiet morning in a town where we've spent enough time that we don't have FOMO about seeing it all. And it's nice to be back in this little loft flat we stayed in last year, with its views over the rooftops and its feeling of privacy, at the top of the old house. I could fairly happily live here . . . but I'll have to make do with two days.